by Gianluca Isaia
"Chist' ccá é fatto apposta pe' tte"by Gianluca Isaia
This Suit Was Made Especially For You
Everyone can't stop blathering on about custom-made, bespoke, hand-made or made-to-measure. It's a genuine obsession: a veritable disaster! It's a rocky terrain full of confusion or, at the very least, imprecision and inaccuracy, if we want to be nice about it. Today everyone does everything: bizarre and cryptic definitions are deliberately introduced, even in the lower-middle range clothing industry, to raise and fuel a thick smoke screen slyly created to further confound an already uncertain situation.
Very often people falsely claim credit, deceiving the more naïve and unprepared customer. Believe me, real "handmade" tailoring is not common. It takes many elements to create something and identify its essence: a series of rules and artisan techniques, work and passion, that have been passed down through centuries and are continuously updated and cultivated like a rare plant by skilled hands.
Do you think I'm too exaggerated and waxing lyrical? Perhaps, but when I talk about "made to measure", it is sheer poetry to me. At Isaia, for example, custom-tailored garments are our specialty and, as I like to repeat, the most profound medium for establishing a personal relationship with our very special, loyal customers around the world. We send our master tailors all over in Europe, the United States and Asia from the very beginning, when measurements are taken and fabrics, patterns, fabric weights, colors and details are selected.
The same people follow the project from start to finish. They follow all fittings to adjust any tiny and sometimes almost invisible imperfection of the garment so that the suit completely adapts to the customer's physique and satisfies particular aesthetic expectations or requirements of comfort. The result is a suit that fits perfectly, like a second skin. The second fundamental aspect is the production process, which entirely takes place in our company workshop, which I cannot bring myself to call a factory. Countless stitches by hand are made swiftly and skillfully after the cut, which is as virtuosic and precise as the "veronica" of a toreador in a Seville bullfighting arena. The hand-stitched buttonholes are a fundamental element of tailoring, a detail that is an obsession for a true connoisseur.
Ironing by hand, which takes more than an hour, is practically an affair of state: it impresses a precise trend and dynamic that becomes essential. The heat of the iron instills life into this nascent creature. Then there are complete or partial linings, myriad details and secrets that connote an ancient and unique art. You can count on the fact that we handle every phase of process, from the design to production, from A to Z. Step by step the suit comes to life and is gradually and almost obsessively adjusted through several fittings. The fabrics have become more sophisticated, unusual, and luxurious and they feature our exclusive motifs and colors. A made-to-measure suit is an extension and expression of the personality of a man who knows what he wants and demands the maximum quality of every aspect. It is a signature piece.
GIANLUCA ISAIA | PHOTO CREDITS: ®TYCHOSEYE
And, finally, when the label with the famous phrase "Chist' ccá é fatto apposta pe' tte" [This was made especially for you] is attached, a promise has been kept and a small miracle of Neapolitan elegance begins its true existence with the person who chose it as a primary need of the soul even more than a reflection of great taste.