Tailoring | ISAIA's Official website and Online Store
A NEAPOLITAN TRADITION
It's all in the details.
SLANTED BREAST POCKET
The breast pocket on all Isaia jackets is slightly slanted; evocative of a typical Neapolitan fishing boat, in fact the pocket is called a taschino a barchetta (boat-shaped breast pocket) in Italian. This kind of pocket takes longer to sew and requires maximum care in executing the finishing details.
THE NEAPOLITAN EXTRA
A little Extra fabric is hand-sewn on the front under-collar of every Isaia jacket. In the past, during the postwar years, a tailor needed this extra fabric in order to reverse the jacket fabric of his less well-to-do customers, to get a few more wears out of the garment. Today it is a mark of class and a symbol of traditional Neapolitan tailoring.
TIES WITH PERSONALITY
Most important is the fabric – gleaming silk: the same is used for the spine (back) and the bid (front). Then, the classic, 45 degree cut, essential to ensure a perfectly flat tie never twists on its weave. A tip for a perfect tie in the morning? Use the “incorporated hand iron” and roll it up in the evening.
ACE UP THE SLEEVE
The Neapolitan-style armhole is small and set very high. As the diameter of the armhole is smaller than the diameter of the sleeve-head, it is up to the skill of the tailor to hand set the sleeve-head’s extra fabric into the armhole, through the use of a “grinze” in the shoulder. The tailor’s expert hands create the right amount of ease to ensure maximum comfort and a perfect fit.
IRONED TO PERFECTION
Careful ironing enhances the perfection of every Isaia jacket. Ironing and pressing takes a lot of time and is divided in several phases. In the intermediate phase, each piece of cloth is ironed on the top and bottom sides using manual, contoured presses that ensure style and a good fit. The finished jacket is then ironed again by hand for an hour and a half to refresh the cloth, redefine details and seal in excellence.
On of the secrets of the true gentleman: a boutonniere loop embroidered with coral-red thread on the back of the lapel. It is an essential of any Isaia jacket.
Little details on the waistband of every pair of trousers ensure absolute comfort. Together with the darts, a v-shaped notch or split waistband gives greater sense of movement. The Sea Island cotton waistband lining allow the skin to breathe more easily. Lastly, extra width is provided in pant seam or selvage, allowing each leg to be let out by up to 1.5 cm. Elegance tuned to the wearer’s comfort.
BUTTONHOLES WITH STYLE
The buttonholes on any Isaia garment are long-lasting and always accommodating the button with the same sturdiness and quality. Awl-cutting, stitching using fine cotton and buttonhole-stitch edging in glossy silk thread are all done by hand, like a piece of embroidery.
MATCHING CHECKS AND STRIPES
With a patterned fabric, cutting the cloth by hand is absolutely essential to ensure that checks, stripes and other designs line up perfectly to create a smooth and continuous pattern.